Le Guide gastronomique de Laurel Watson

Harvey Nichols Fifth Floor Restaurant
01.03.2012, 20:53

Beatuiful setting with some good dishes but very inconsistent.
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Tate Modern (Restaurant)
02.03.2012, 07:49

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Le Verre Volé
01.03.2012, 20:53

Traditional bistro with a short menu. We had excellent lamb dish. Very well priced wines.
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Le Reminet
01.03.2012, 20:53

Good cuisine with some inventive combinations.
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Christophe
01.03.2012, 20:54

Excellent food, particularly the beef.
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Beatuiful setting with some good dishes but very inconsistent.
Need to have better overall food quality.
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Traditional bistro with a short menu. We had excellent lamb dish. Very well priced wines.

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Good cuisine with some inventive combinations.

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Excellent food, particularly the beef.
The decor is minimal to say the least.
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The no choice dinner menu was so innovative. The goosenecked barnacles were a first for us.
We noted an allergy to clams, yet they served clams.
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We enjoyed a 4 hour + lunch. My à la carte tomato salad plate was the most amazing dish I ate in 15 days in Paris.
The tomato dessert which was part of the degustation menu was odd for dessert but an interesting experiment.
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Our reservations were for the sushi bar which sits along the far wall from the entryway. There are also tables but the entire restaurant is fairly small. The blond wood which predominates gives the room a warm glow. With the subtle lighting and relatively quiet noise level, it feels like an oasis of calm. We sat at one end of the sushi bar near one of four sushi chefs. We later learned it was the owner, Yasuda. Before we started, the chef in front of us explained this was traditional Tokyo style and we could order one piece at a time. Everything was available but the sushi was best we were told. We started with toro, the fatty part of tuna. We each received a piece and were told to eat the entire piece at once and that no wasabi or soy sauce were needed because it was already put on for us. The toro was delicious and its flavour prominent because of the lightly flavoured rice, the small dab of wasabi and light brushing of soy sauce. After that, we just left it to the sushi chef to suggest what to have next as he had very clear opinions about the order in which to eat each of the different fish, seafood and vegetable sushi in order to maximize the taste and everything he claimed proved true. We experienced an amazing taste adventure. His chatter about each item also provided its own entertainment.

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Mon français écrit n'est pas bon, donc: The interior is contemporary. Huge glass windows overlook an illuminated forest of trees, Richard Avedon photos and colourful contemporary paintings adorn the walls, Phillipe Starck furniture dots the room. Many well dressed people were seated at the widely spaced tables. Service was very professional. The menu was beautifully crafted and very seasonal. We started with artichokes in vegetables and broth, and a foie gras terrine. Mains were chicken and foie gras (because my dining companion could not get enough foie gras) and beef Bordelaise with marrow. We followed with a cheese course as we finished our wine from the wine list which mainly featured Bordeaux wines including some superstars with equally astronomical prices. While enjoying my beef, I questioned whether I was going to be able to eat it all, but our waiter told me just to go slowly and convinced me that not only could I finish, I was going to enjoy my dessert course as well. We finished with molten chocolate cake with raspberry sorbet and a cherry chocolate with cherry sorbet. We left very sated and happy. €170 for two people including wine.

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Mon français écrit n'est pas bon, donc: This is one of the two Michelin starred restaurants in Venice. The windows look onto the Grand Canal. It’s very tiny, six tables, and the décor is very red. We started with a water menu and were each poured a glass of prosecco. The dinner menu has 3 tasting menus consisting of either 17, 11 or 5 courses. We opted for the al a carte menu, which is not traditional Italian, more French in its approach. We were served two amuses, a rabbit consommé and tuna tartare. Starters of four “Cicchetti” was a squid ink gelatin square topped with a poach prawn, squid and a seared scallop; mousse of eel and crab, baccala on a brioche with yoghurt and an anchovy surrounding an anchovy mousse topped with a caper, and squid salad and an elaborate layered dish of guinea hen, handmade pasta, cheese flan and tangerine. We split a risotto “Amatriciana” given its name presumably because it was made with a very smoky pancetta and tomatoes, surrounded by a pesto sauce and topped with prawns and pine nuts. Also had handmade pasta with lentils, a rice cracker, fish and a sauce with a curry spice, cardamom, we thought. For secondi, we had hare “salumi” which was jugged hare formed into a sausage shape accompanied by a juniper flan which had the most amazing taste; baby beef cheeks done in Valpolicella with blood oranges and onions; and red mullet on an artichoke heart with almonds, olives and a “nougat” which was a sauce we couldn’t identify. We had two bottles, Barolo and a Guado al Tasso, an Antinori super Tuscan. The sommelier, noticed we were sharing the chocolate tasting dessert, so he recommended something which was not on the menu because they found it in the cellars. It is a Barbaresco Chinato, similar to the Barolo Chinato, a slightly sweet wine flavoured with herbs. It made a very interesting compliment to the chunks of different dark chocolate we were served. We were completely full but were brought a tray of tiny pastries and managed to eat most of them.

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