Très bel accueil dans cet établissement de charme... Et pour cette première visite, nous choisissons le menu dégustation.
Langoustines
chaud & froid au jus de pommes vertes crème légère à la moutarde Fallot & caviar de France
Blanc de Saint-Pierre
risotto aux couteaux & asperges de Provence bouillon de champignons gingembre citron
Petits pois & morilles
étuvée au persil | sot-l'y-laisse confit velouté d'oignons doux
Côte & selle d'agneau de Pauillac
rôties | nougatine d'ail pain soufflé & carottes de Créances
fromages et en dessert un sublime "trois feuilles" aux pommes caramélisées
Très belles suites de mets tout en équilibre et subtilité
There is an experience when visiting cathedrals that is quite similar to visiting great restaurants: even though you might not always be able to describe why, you know you are in the presence of greatness and you understand the meaning of the word awe. So it was today at Lameloisse, a restaurant whose reputation has travelled far, like a breeze blown by the winds to distant lands.
My second great gastronomic experience in this region after Greuze, and my first three star Michelin lunch in a long time. Let me begin on the least positive note and build from there. The least positive thing about this restaurant is that it is situated in a rather unattractive part of Chagny. Even the Place des Armes outside is nothing to write home about. But step inside and you know right away you are in another world. As it is also a hotel there is a reception which, initially is a little confusing. The hotel lobby is nice but nothing compared to the restaurant so do not waste any time there and proceed to table.
At table you will see the lovely interior and although it is not ostentatious, you will note that every detail is well placed, thought through, and coherent. The staff get to work immediately and you know you are dealing with the very top of the top. In fact, I could say that the most successful element of the lunch today, and this is not to disparage the food, was the service. Amazing: the type of service where you literally are transported, as on a cloud, noticing only every other intervention, never feeling anything but self-satisfied and utterly spoilt.
The food is also on the level of great artistry. Some of the best presentation I have ever seen, well timed, expertly served. Where we would take a few points off is in the actually blending of flavours. In fact I would have to say that the meal felt more like a two star than a three star and while I felt the overall experience was a good point above Greuze (which is over-rated at 18 at the time of this writing) I hesitate to give a 19 as I think an 18 is in order. A few elements were 19 or more, such as the mise en bouche and the petit passion before the dessert. The petits fours were amazing and a plate of steamed foie gras and potatoes with truffles served as an entrée were our of this world. As was the apple tart: the most amazing artistry. But for one other entrée, two main courses, and one dessert, each plate succeeded but also came a bit short in some aspect. We are talking degrees of perfection here but the grouse, presented with figs and cepes, was just not as well thought through in terms of the way the meat could have been cut, cooked, or blended with the other ingredients. The "sandre" served as entrée was slightly too salty and the sauce presented, while delicious in itself, slightly overpowered the delicate taste of the fish. What we really could not understand after such a wonderful meal, was a rather unappetising espresso at the end.
Excellent wine carte, probably one of the best I have ever seen of the Bourgogne (do not come here expecting to drink wine of other regions as they have limited representation on the carte). Let yourself be guided by the sommelier for your choice as they know what they are choosing and can perfectly blend their recommendations with their knowledge of the dishes.
Overall a fine and unique experience at reasonable prices for a 3 Michelin. If you are careful you can probably come out at under 100 Euro a person. We were not and now I have a big hole burning where my wallet used to be....good for walking off the calories if you cannot sit down!
The blending of flavours and the taking of risks with flavours. Parking, it is true, is not very convenient.
A la question qu'est-ce qu'un 3 étoiles?Je réponds toujours,la transcendance!Comme ce plat ahurissant de chaud/froid de pommes verte aux langoustines,l'une crue l'autre cuite et caviar d'Aquitaine,une création d'Eric Pras,d'une beauté sensorielle inouïe.Un plat à vous humecter les yeux et vous laisser la fourchette en suspension,je n'ai laissé à personne d'autre le soin de ramener moi-même l'assiette en cuisine pour féliciter chaleureusement l'auteur de cette belle ouvrage.Pour ce plat et pour d'autres,pour le beurre de chez Bordier,pour la carte des vins comme pour le service,allez chez Lameloise,c'est une adresse qui compte dans le patrimoine de la gastronomie Française.Et puis cerise sur le gâteau,c'est le 3 le moins cher de France,avec son menu dégustation à 146euros
Le 3* le plus décevant à ce jour. J'y ai diné en 2007, quand il venait d'obtenir sa troisième. Amuses-bouches exceptionnels certes et très belles assiettes mais rien de transcendant.
Un service froid et désagrablée qui n'a pas apprécié que l'on refuse un vin bouchonné.