Norway does not probably rank among the top culinary destinations on most people's lists, although one can eat quite well in Oslo I have been told. Tromso is in the very north of the country 300 km above the arctic circle and a major destination for those seeking the Northern Lights.
This is definitely snow country and extremely beautiful, but do not come here for the food. First, the prices are HUGE (double what you would pay in Switzerland both in the supermarkets and in the restaurants) so be warned. However, you could not come to this city and not visit Emma's restaurants. In fact there are two of them located on the ground floor and the first floor of an enchanting little house, right in the center and not far from the main tourist office. Just walking by gives you an immediate desire to sit down for dinner which is what happened to us.
The restaurant upstairs is very french in decor and the service and cooking are definitely vying for a Michelin star. Downstairs is a contemporary bistro that is not very large and which serves roughly the same menu and an excellent and well chosen selection of wines. The downstairs is called "Emma Under" and is where we had dinner. Upstairs is called "Emma's Dream Kitchen".
The fish is an absolute delight and cod is served as we were told in all months that do not have an "r" in them (in English of course). The reindeer filets are probably the speciality though and known throughout the region, as is the cod's tongue, deep-friend in batter and served as an entrée.
The food was well presented and very good, although we would have been even more impressed if the plates had been warmed and the fish had not sat a little too long waiting for its hungry customer. This said service was very friendly (almost to much so but then again the Norwegians are a friendly lot) and very informal except for one lovely touch which was the serving of food with white gloves which I thought was actually very nice and which one sees rarely these days.
All in all a lovely experience, especially recommended for romantic couples and fine for families too. Desserts were delicious.
Lovely decor, small but excellent menu, good wines, but cooking could use 10% more focus, and service likewise could use a little bit more formality. But on the whole loved the experience and no major complaints.